Welcome to Acrylic Stew! So many of our awesome customers have requested help on learning how to C2C crochet (corner-to-corner), so we tried to collect a lot of information to help you all learn the basics. We hope this turns out to be an awesome resource for you!
We hope the this post is pretty comprehensive, but if you see something that you think we missed or that we need to include in future tools, please feel free to let us know! Also, if you find these tutorials helpful, please share with your friends!
From the Beginning
Corner to corner crochet (referred to as C2C throughout), is basically working 'blocks' diagonally from the lower right corner to the upper left corner*. C2C is an awesome method for working graph chart patterns and for creating very detailed images, including but not limited to photographs. This addicting technique is not only simple once you get the hang of it, but it makes for the most gorgeous graphgans you have ever seen!
There are many tutorials and methods of C2C out there in the world wide universe, but this method is my preference. For this tutorial I used a 'J' (6.00 mm) hook so that you could see the stitches very clearly. I typically use an 'E' (3.5 mm) hook for my personal projects where each block is approximately 3/4" of an inch to 1" big. For larger blankets (typically 80 stitches wide/tall or larger) I do a mini C2C. This will be covered in a future tutorial.
- Yarn (the weight is your choice...I use worsted weight without dye lots so I don't have color variances within my project)
- Hook (size is your choice. For reference on what hook size to use, see our earlier article here. I'm using a J for the tutorial)
- Graph chart (You can use the actual chart you want to make, or grab some scrap and just get used to the technique first)
- Bobbin Holder or Bobbin Clips (I typically use clip bobbins for my smaller projects...seen here.)
- Embroidery Needle
sl st - slip stitch
dc - double crochet
ch - chain/chain stitch
How to C2C Crochet:
1. Chain 6
2. DC in the third chain from the hook and in the next two chains (3 dc). Your first block is made!
3. Ch 6.
4. DC in the third chain from the hook and in the next two chains (3 dc). Your second block is made!
5. With both blocks made, turn them in the same direction (as shown above). Then, take the left block and flip it to face the opposite direction (as shown below).
6. Look at the left block. You will see a gap between where you skipped three ch's and started your dc. Insert your hook into that space at the top (as shown below). Sl st in that space to connect the top of the left block to the side of the right block.
7. Ch 3. Dc three times in the same space. Ch 6. Your project should look similar to the photo below. The ch 6 is called an 'increase'. Turn your work so you can work the chain. Skip 3 ch, and dc in the 3 remaining chains.
Continue to repeat steps 6 and 7 until you get to the end of the row, and then repeat the steps starting at number one to continue to increase (as shown below).
Decreasing only occurs after you have completed the middle row (for a square), or until you reach a height corner or width corner (in a rectangle). I will address decreasing in a rectangle in a future tutorial.
To decrease, you basically STOP increasing. So, once you get to the end of a row, instead of ch 6, you will only ch 3! Then you will turn your work, sl st in the top of the last stitch you just finished and start working your way back across!
I think that's it! I hope this little tutorial helps you! Please post questions on this thread if you have any, and I will do my best to help you! Until next time...xx
* C2C can be worked from any corner. Lefties often work from the upper left to the lower right. Your starting corner is personal preference.